Holy Toledo

A flight to Philadelphia, another flight to Madrid, a bus to the train station, a 30 minute train ride, and a taxi ride to our hotel and suddenly, 18 hours and 6000 miles later, we find ourselves in Toledo, Spain at the beginning of our latest winter escape. The chilly morning air reminds us we are still in the northern hemisphere in December, but at least it's warmer than back home. And it's not raining.

Toledo is a very old and very well preserved city with 2500 years of history encompassing Romans, Visigoths, Moors, Jews, and Christians. The entire city has been declared a national monument where modern exteriors are forbidden. It is a confusing labyrinth of narrow, cobblestone lanes that are truly fun to get lost in – at least if you are walking. Some brave threading their cars between the encroaching stone walls – with mere inches to spare on either side – but mostly this is a place for pedestrians. And mostly tourists. Souvenir shops are everywhere; but so is incredible art, architecture and a thick cloak of history. Our hotel, for instance, dated back to the 15^th century. Toledo's impressive cathedral is one of Europe's best.

At a cafe we met an American student who was studying in Toledo and had been in Spain for a few months. In addition to helping us with a few Spanish phrases she showed us a church where an impressive nativity scene had been set up. This wasn't just one little manger with a couple of wise men standing around, this was an entire village with a river, waterfalls, laundry on the line, people building fires... Oddly, the one thing that seemed to be missing was the baby Jesus. Mary was just sitting there with the figures gathered around staring at an empty makeshift crib. I don't know if someone nicked the little tyke, or if he is meant to be brought out at a later date, or maybe he was just in a hurry to float up to heaven before going through all that nasty crucifixion business.

Deborah and I both loved Toledo and have to rank it as one of our favorite cities, which is really saying something considering how our severe cases of jet lag could easily have dampened our enthusiasm. In our eyes Spain is off to a very good start.

Convent next to our hotel


The bell shape hanging above the street lights up at night


...like these do.



Nativity scene (but who stole baby Jesus?)



Toledo at night.



Jamon (ham) is very big in Spain.



Mazapan (Marzipan) is also big in Toledo, and formed into the most elaborate constructions.



Inside the cathedral (no photos allowed but I snuck one in - guess I'm going to hell now)



A jetlagged Deborah in her new amazing hat/scarf made by friend Helen.



Narrow lanes abound.



It's actually a closer fit than it looks here.



Another church.



The happy (but sleep deprived) couple.